
A how-to for the easiest warm-season earner in the North Texas garden — a heat-loving crop that just keeps producing from early summer until frost. Part of the Garden & Greenhouse.

Unlike tomatoes, peppers are happy through the worst of the North Texas summer. They may pause fruit-set in the very hottest weeks, then surge again as nights cool. Practically that means one long window: plant once after frost and harvest from June through the mid-Nov frost. A light flush often comes in fall as the heat breaks.
Start seed indoors 8–10 weeks ahead (Feb) or buy starts. Don't rush them out — cold soil stalls them. Set transplants after ~Apr 1 once soil hits 60°F, spaced 18" apart in rows ~2.5–3' apart. Mulch to hold moisture; cage or stake tall/heavy-fruited types so loaded branches don't snap.
| Month | What |
|---|---|
| Feb | Sow indoors under lights (8–10 wks before set-out). |
| Apr (after ~Apr 1 frost, soil 60°F+) | Transplant; mulch; stake heavy types. |
| Jun | First harvest begins. |
| Jul–Aug | Production may pause in peak heat — keep watered and mulched. |
| Sep–Oct | Big fall flush as nights cool. |
| mid-Nov | Pick everything before the first frost. |
Aphids and spider mites hit stressed plants — keep them watered. Pepper weevil and hornworms show up; hand-pick or treat. Blossom-end rot can appear in fruit just like tomatoes from uneven watering — mulch and water steadily.
Above ~90°F peppers may drop blossoms and pause fruit-set, and exposed fruit gets sunscald (pale, papery patches). Light shade cloth and steady moisture carry them to the cool fall flush.
| Stage | Do this |
|---|---|
| Green vs ripe | Pick bells green for yield, or leave to color up (red/yellow) for sweetness — your call. |
| Cutting | Cut, don't pull — tearing breaks the brittle branches. |
| Frequency | Pick often; regular harvest keeps the plant setting more fruit. |