Plan · Step 3 of 6

Bid & Hire — sourcing your subs

As your own GC, your job is to bid, hire, sequence, and coordinate the trades. Line up the good ones early — most are booked months out. Tick each as you collect bids / hire (saves on this device).

01 Who to bid — in build order

Line them up roughly in this order; the ones marked (DIY) you and the wife can take on. Track your progress as you collect bids and hire.

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	Trade — what they do / when
	Land surveyorBoundary + topo survey, stakes building corners — pre-construction
	Geotech / soil testingBorings + report that drive the slab design (North-TX clay) — before foundation
	Septic (OSSF) designer + installerDesign early for the permit; install after the shell
	Water-well driller + pumpCan run early, in parallel
	Dirt work / grading & padClears, cuts the drive, builds the compacted pad — after survey/geotech
	Foundation / slab companyForms, under-slab plumbing stub-outs, rebar, pour — after pad
	Metal-building erector or framing crewErects the steel kit / frames the panelized shell — after the slab cures
	Roofer (if not in the kit)Metal roof + flashing — with/after the shell
	Window & door installerSets & flashes exterior openings — dry-in
	PlumberTop-out rough (before insulation), then finish fixtures
	HVACDuct/equipment rough (before insulation), then trim
	ElectricianPanel + rough wiring (before insulation), then trim — you can do LV/data
	Spray-foam insulationSeals the shell (essential in metal) — after all roughs pass
	Drywall crew (or DIY)Hang, tape, float, texture — after insulation
	Finish trades: cabinets/counters, flooring, paint, trim (much is DIY)

02 How to bid it out

Apples to apples

Get at least 3 bids per trade. Hand every bidder the same stamped plans + written scope so the numbers compare. Scrutinize allowances (cabinet/fixture/flooring placeholders) and exclusions (what's NOT in the price) — a low bid with big allowances often ends up the highest.

Who pulls the permit

Usually the licensed sub pulls the permit for their trade (electrical, plumbing, HVAC, septic). Confirm it's in their bid, not yours.

03 Vetting a contractor (Texas)

Must hold a state license — verify the number

Electricians — TDLR
Plumbers — TSBPE (now under TDLR)
HVAC (ACR) — TDLR
Irrigators — TCEQ
Septic / OSSF installers — TCEQ
Well drillers / pump installers — TDLR

NOT state-licensed in TX

General contractors, framers, foundation/slab, dirt work, roofers, drywall, painters, cabinet/flooring — Texas has no statewide GC license. Check any city/county registration, and lean hard on insurance, references & reviews.

For every sub: require a current COI (general liability + workers' comp), check references & recent jobs, reviews, and lien/complaint history.

04 Contracts & payment

Written scope of work for each sub — no handshake deals.
Fixed-price where scope is clear; time-and-materials only where it's genuinely uncertain (e.g., dirt-work surprises).
Draw/progress payments tied to completed AND inspected milestones — never to a calendar.
Modest or zero upfront deposit — big money upfront is the #1 owner-GC trap.
Hold ~10% retainage until the punch list is done.
Collect a lien waiver with every payment.
Put a written change-order process in the contract — price + scope signed before extra work.
Texas mechanic's lien awareness: unpaid subs/suppliers can lien your homestead even if you paid someone else — pay only against waivers.

05 Owner-GC tips

Book early

Good subs schedule months out — foundation, erector/framing, and septic fill first. Reserve them before you're ready.

Sequence so trades don't collide

Roughs (plumbing/HVAC/electrical) before insulation; insulation before drywall; finishes last. Own the calendar.

Coordinate inspections

Schedule each inspection between phases so nothing gets covered before it passes — and carry builder's-risk insurance + site safety.