
A how-to for garlic — the crop you plant in fall and forget, then pull a whole year's supply the next summer. Part of the Garden & Greenhouse.

Skip the hardneck types that want a hard cold winter — our mild Zone 8 winters favor softneck garlic (Artichoke and Silverskin types). Softnecks store longer, yield well in heat, and have the pliable stems you need for braiding.
Break a bulb into cloves and plant the biggest, pointy-end up, 2 in deep, 4–6 in apart in rows ~12 in apart, in rich, well-drained soil and full sun. Mulch with straw to hold moisture and block weeds over winter. Stop watering a couple weeks before harvest so the bulbs cure properly.
| Month | What happens |
|---|---|
| Oct – Nov | Plant cloves and mulch with straw before winter. |
| Dec – Feb | Roots set; top growth slow — little to do but check mulch. |
| Mar – Apr | Green shoots surge; feed lightly and keep evenly watered. |
| May – early June | Harvest when lower leaves brown but several green ones remain up top. |
| June – July | Cure in a dry, airy, shaded spot 2–4 weeks; then braid or trim. |
Garlic's worst enemy is wet feet — soggy soil brings white rot and basal rot that ruin bulbs. Plant in raised, well-drained beds and don't overwater. Avoid planting where onions or garlic grew recently to dodge soil-borne disease.
Garlic is a poor competitor — keep it weeded or yields shrink. Watch the harvest window closely: pull too late and the wrapper splits and the bulb won't store; too early and the bulbs are small and underdeveloped.
| Step | How & how long it keeps |
|---|---|
| Lift | Loosen with a fork and pull when 3–4 lower leaves have browned; don't yank by the stem. Brush off soil — don't wash. |
| Cure | Hang or lay in a shaded, airy spot 2–4 weeks until necks are dry and papery. |
| Store / braid | Trim roots and tops, or braid softnecks. Cured bulbs keep 6–9+ months in a cool, dry, dark place. |